The photographic portrait has been among the most practiced forms of art since the emergence of photography in the mid-19th century. It quickly rose to prominence artistically, socially, and even economically, becoming a sought-after art form among aristocrats and ruling classes in Europe and America. Portrait photography replaced traditional painted portraits, creating official or artistic representations of individuals.
Portrait photography involves various visual elements, ranging from bust portraits showing the upper chest and face to close-ups focusing solely on the face. Some compositions are broader, including the entire body, seated or standing, in ways that reflect the subject's personal, cultural, professional, or symbolic identity. These portraits can be created in studios or outdoor settings.
In 1880, Irish photographer James Lauder, professionally known as James Lafayette, gained fame as a pioneer of indoor portrait photography in Dublin and London, and arguably across Europe. After training in Paris, the birthplace of photography in the 1820s, Lauder founded "Lafayette Studio" in Dublin, adopting a French name to emphasize his artistic lineage. His work gained significant recognition, leading Duchess Sophia Murphy of Devonshire House in London's upscale Piccadilly area to invite him to photograph her historical costume ball in 1897. This type of commission was previously reserved for painters. Lauder's reputation further grew as he photographed prominent British royal figures, including Queen Victoria, earning the titles "Victorian" and "Edwardian" photographer, titles previously exclusive to painters.
The Duchess prescribed specific Eastern and Western costumes for her guests, inspired by characters such as Cleopatra, Zenobia (Queen of Palmyra), Bilqis (Queen of Sheba), Desdemona, Cassio, Sir Galahad, Romeo and Juliet, knights of the Round Table, and mythical Greek and Roman figures. Lauder meticulously transported studio elements, including custom-painted backdrops, lighting equipment, and development materials, to the venue. He paid extraordinary attention to detail, even developing glass negatives on-site to ensure the best results, allowing him to adjust poses and angles as needed.
Lauder’s innovation extended to custom-designed backdrops, tailored to complement the historical costumes of his subjects, setting a precedent for portrait photography studios. His work earned multiple patents for photographic techniques, influencing subsequent generations of photographers. His approach, combining patience, technical precision, and artistic vision, positioned photography as a viable competitor to traditional portrait painting.
"Lafayette Studio" operated in Dublin from 1880, later expanding to Glasgow, Manchester, and London. However, following Lauder's death in 1923, the studio's prominence declined, with its branches closing within a few years. By 1952, the main studio in Dublin was sold, and thousands of original glass negatives, including 200 from the Devonshire House ball, were reportedly lost or destroyed.
Remarkably, in 1986, the glass negatives from the Devonshire House ball were discovered in a dusty cardboard box behind a screen in a storage loft at Pinewood Studios in London. These negatives were among thousands of Lauder’s works depicting historical events, social occasions, and prominent figures, including Queen Victoria. Their rediscovery was a momentous event for historians, academics, and art institutions worldwide, shedding light on Lauder's groundbreaking contributions to early portrait photography.
Lauder’s work, preserved in institutions like the National Portrait Gallery in London, exemplifies the artistry and technical mastery of his era. His portraits provide valuable lessons in understanding light sources, composition, and the interplay between subject and background. Lauder’s innovative use of hand-painted backdrops and single, soft lighting techniques gave his photographs depth and realism, distinguishing them as a pivotal moment in the history of studio photography.
This body of work remains a testament to Lauder’s ingenuity, showcasing the transformation of portrait photography into an art form that rivaled painted portraits, which had dominated for centuries. His legacy as a pioneer of European studio photography endures, celebrated for elevating the genre to unparalleled artistic heights.
His Photos at "Devonshire House" Disappeared for 71 Years Before Their Discovery… Personality and Space in the Portraits of Irish Photographer James Lauder
By Mohammad Hannon / originaly written in Arabic and published in Arabic newspapers.
Palestinian-Jordanian Photographer / Budapest
Translated by ChatGPT
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