In the annals of mountaineering history, few tales were as compelling and transformative as Edward Whymper’s. First published in 1871, this classic work chronicles the first successful climb of the Matterhorn in 1865, a feat that heralded mountaineering as a popular sport and spawned a new genre – that of the high-thrills adventure book. It was soon recognized as a masterpiece and the Times wrote about his gripping bestseller, The Ascent of the Matterhorn, that ‘you can almost hear the tinkle of bells on the Apls; you breathe the fresh fragrance of the pine trees’.
Almost 150 years later Whymper’s memoir is republished for the first time in an expanded illustrated edition. Whymper was not only a keen mountaineer but also a Victorian driven by an insatiable curiosity. One of his pursuits was photography and in 1874 he was the first man to lug a mobile camera on to the Matterhorn to take pictures. He used these pictures for his lantern-lecture tours around the world and they are included for the first time in this edition.
In the nineteenth century the book opened a window on to the Alps but in the 21st century, it is still a landmark in autobiography for ramblers and climbers alike. Bill Bryson has long been an admirer of Whymper's work, which is one of his favourites. In his view, is not just a mountaineering classic but a testament to the indomitable human spirit. Bryson appreciates Whymper's meticulous attention to detail and his ability to convey the awe-inspiring beauty and formidable dangers of the Alps. According to him Whymper’s ‘glorious’ narrative transcends its genre with its leap from exhilaration to complete desolation, offering a dramatic reflection of human ambition and the relentless pursuit of dreams.
Today the Matterhorn is still treacherous with its implacable ridges and it certainly was on the day of the ascent, made on July 14, 1865, for the men in the their tweeds and rudimentary mountaineering equipment and skills. Whymper's team consisted of seven climbers, including Michel Croz, Lord Francis Douglas, Charles Hudson, and Douglas Hadow. Their summit success was overshadowed by tragedy during the descent, when Hadow slipped, causing a catastrophic fall that claimed the lives of Croz, Douglas, Hadow and Hudson. They had crossed the fine line between triumph and disaster and Whymper could never unsee the sudden dispatch to their deaths of the men he had led to victory.
Whymper’s account is both a gripping adventure story and a meticulous chronicle of his repeated attempts and eventual triumph.In her foreword, Theresa May reflects on the historical and personal significance of Whymper’s journey. She draws parallels between the challenges faced by Whymper and those encountered in political and personal arenas, highlighting the timeless virtues of perseverance, courage, and leadership. May's insights add a contemporary dimension to Whymper’s tale, emphasizing its relevance to modern readers.
The Ascent of the Matterhorn. The forgotten photographs
Edward Whymper, foreword by Theresa May
Gibson Square, 2025
ISBN: 9781783342846
£16.99, 288 pages
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